Sunday, November 2, 2008

My Inca Trail

After spending the September days of spring with my family I was now back on the road. Retaking my adventure in La Paz, the futherest point of journey up until then, I spent the days frivolously, taking advantage of the time to enjoy the company of my Bolivian friends. Upon leaving La Paz, after an over than expected stay, the feeling of solitude seeped in, a sensation that I have become familiar with, particularly after leaving people and places that has become a home. Nevertheless, discovering new places and befriending new people would feel this void.

Spending a few days in Copacabana, which hugs Lake Titicaca, was the first point of my journey. Exploring, and understanding, the ruins of civilisations that had passed was to mark a new chapter in my odyssey. From Copacabana I travelled by boat to La Isla Del Sol (Island of the Sun) a significant area for the Tiwanaku people, where the ruins are still used for spiritual purposes. The expansive lake gives the impression of an endless ocean. I had met an enjoyable Argentinian couple whom I comparted my travel around Titicaca with.

Setting my sights to Peru, and satisfied with Copacabana, I took a day trip on a bus to Arequipa, the white city, aptly named for the predominate white stone used in its construction. The distinctly conserved and developed Spanish colonial architecture was impressive. I also had the pleasure of reuniting with Lara - an English woman that was seated next to me on the bus were we kepted each other entertained - on a few occassions, that made the time in Arequipa enjoyable.

Being ambivalent of undertaking a 3 day trekking tour of the Colca Canyon from Arequipa, due to the less than pleasurable experience I had with a group tour in Uyuni, I finally decided to accept due to the positive feedback I had received. I had made the right choice, as the people and scenary were equally fantastic. Throughout the trip I forged a really close bond with Olivia, a young Spanish woman, and made some good friends with the other travellers. The daily treks up and down the canyon were extremly arduous, but satisfying once you reached your destination. On the 2nd day we reached an oasis, with swimming pools, palm trees and huts in the valley of the canyon, and we bathed in the serenity of this paradise. On the final day it was a grueling climb up the mountain, reaching the peak of the canyon the Julius Caesar's saying "Veni Vidi Vici" ("I came, I saw, I conquered.") came to mind.

That night, on the return to Arequipa, I had learned of blockade of main roads leading into Cuzco; however, not deterred by this I was keen to continue immediately. No respectable bus company were transitting this route; but I had found one bus that was boarding to go. I embarked the bus, finding no seat I settled for the less than comfortable floor in the drivers cabin, where I managed to sleep, and slightly recover from the trek for a while (here, on the floor, I seriously thought, "this is all part of the experience"). The bus arrived in Sicuani, the epicentre of the blockade, at 4:00am. At 5:00ish I decided to start walking, with the hope of quickly passing the blockade to find another bus to take me to Cuzco. However, things were not so simple. Befriending a priest, we proceded from one blockade to the next, taking any kind transport that was available to advance... 8 long, blistering hours later, 4 of them walking with my 18 kilo backpack, I finally reached Cuzco.

Cuzco, the naval of the world, as the Inca's knew it, was the political, economic, spiritual, and administrative centre of the grandiose Inca Empire. Tawantinsuyo, as the Empire was known, was the largest pre-colombian Empire in the Americas. Although the Empire spanned a few hundred years (estimated 1100 A.D - 1532 A.D), and expanded in an extraoridinary amount of time, it was the articulation of knowledge and experience from previous peoples of the Americas that were foundations of this civilisation. Passing through the streets of Cuzco it is remarkable to see the original stone walls of the Inca's still standing and forged with Spanish colonial architecture. The conquest and imposition of Spanish civilisation is palable (and sad), as the old Inca temples and ruins were used as the foundation for churhes and a New World Order. Cuzco is immensely impressive in both culture and history.

Meeting up with my dear friends, Olivia and her partner Alberto, we booked an overpriced tour (as they all are) to Machu Picchu. We spent 2 days and 2 nights on our journey. Along the way we toured the Sacred Valley, which still retains monuments, ruins, and the vestiges of a Inca village, Ollantaytambo. Needless to say, the highlight was the awesome Machu Picchu. No words could describe this marvel or the emotions you feel when you pass through the ruins of an ancient world. All I can say is that Machu Picchu would have to be the highlight of my entire trip, thus far. We had the fortune to spend the entire day there, from 7:00am - 4:00pm. Thankfully, the old gringos did not overcrowd the place, so at times you can find yourself alone. Also, we took the opporunity to climb up Waynu Picchu, the iconic mountain behind Machu, for a magnificent view of the historic ruins.

On Thursday, October 30, returning to Cuzco, Olivia, Alberto and I took an overnight bus to Lima. They departed to Iquitos, far away in the tropics of the Amazon for a few days, and were to return shortly; however, I realised how much we had bonded when the familiar feeling of lonliness creeped in. But meeting up with my extended family in Lima from the side of my sister-in-law, Guisela, was great.

On Tuesday, November 4, I left to revolutionary Venezuela. It was a stressful and emotional trip (I will save that story for the next post). Shortly, some familiar faces will arrive and I will soon see my long-lost friends from BrisVegas. I intend to stay here till the end of the year, then, hopefully, travel with the crazy kids from Brisbane to Cuba. The idea of seeing them has got me really excited. I eagerly await to explore and understand Venezuela, who knows what will happen here though...

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Photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65353&l=0028c&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65764&l=6eea9&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65997&l=e096e&id=732774973