Bolivia Adelante

Previously, I had stated my intentions to go to Santa Cruz and observe the recall referendum of August 10. Why Santa Cruz? Because it is the most politically divided region, at times escalating into street skirmishes. A hot spot to be in. But I had never been there either, so it would be a interesting place to explore. There is also a saying: the most beautiful women in the world are in Santa Cruz.

In my last post, I had also stated that I needed to travel "under-cover", or risk being identified as a leftist and be beaten to the side of the curb. The time had finally come, I went to the hair-dresser to get butchered. Subsequently, I must admit, that it was like looking at a stranger in the mirror. I think peoples most common reaction was "wah!". In my photos, most people may not recognise the face staring back at them, don't be alarmed, for it is only me.

Unfortunately, some miscoordination on my behalf had me miss the overnight bus to Santa Cruz. Still itching to get out of La Paz I decided to go to Cochabamba for the weekend to observe the referendum. Cochabamba, at time, seemed like the next best thing: the governing prefect was contesting that the referendum was illegal, and there were rumors of shock groups being mobilised.

A few days before the referendum I had got accredited as an international(ist) journalist. Upon arriving in Cochabamba I immediately went to the Electoral Court to request authorisation for transport - during the weekend there was a curfew in place, to avoid any form of confrontation, and only those authorised could drive on the day.

On Sunday, August 10, the day of the referendum had turned out unexpected: quiet. No street fights; no fascist gangs; no burning tires - just quietness. It had taken me till the afternoon before I got some wheels. A few friends and I then traveled around Cochabamba, visiting the electoral booths, where I took the opportunity to interview people. It was a interesting experience to listen to peoples varied opinions. However, to actually transcribe these interviews into a coherent article is some hard labor, one which I haven't got around to.

During the evening the results came in: Evo Morales, the indigenous president, was ratified with 63% (67% final count, a historic vote); the prefect for Cochabamba, Manfred Reyes Villa, was revoked with 60%. In the evening, at the government party (MAS) headquarters, the festivities were underway. Outside the prefects office, the people were heckling him.

The following day I had unique opportunity to attend a press conference were the prefect gave a rabid, delusional speech. Afterwards, I interviewed the director of MAS of Cochabamba to compose an article. But the article was only valid for one day, as the prefect soon resigned. Nevertheless, it was a interesting insight.

I was soon accompanied in Cochabamba by Maria-Elena - a young Colombian woman, who, like me, is traveling through South America, but on her way to Buenos Aires, Argentina, and decided to live in La Paz for a while. Circumstances had it that my weekend stay turned into a week. That weekend, Maria-Elena and I were eager to go La Higuera, where Comandante Che Guevara was captured and executed, until we discovered it was a 12 hour bus ride in a what looked like an extremely uncomfortable bus - we decided not to proceed, as our timeframe was tight. Still desiring to escape Cocha, we chose to go the Tropic of Cochabamba, Chapare.

Arriving in Villa Tunari, Chapare, at 2am after an 8 hour bus trip, in what was suppose to be a 4 hour trip, Maria-Elena and I wandered around looking for accommodation. We had stumbled onto a cheap hostel that had a river view, the sound of the rapids gives the impression that it is raining. However, the next day, in an attempt to escape the humidity we booked into a hotel with a swimming pool, were we lounged around for the weekend. Our idea of visiting a coca farm, which is the main harvest in this region, was foiled by our laziness, and inability to adjust to the humidity.

On Sunday, August 16, we returned to Cocha, in a mini-van that played chicken with on coming traffic, but you learn to accept the notion of a cliff drop death, and then just appreciate the marvelous view. Upon arriving in Cocha, and with no time to waste, I took the evening bus to La Paz, whilst Maria-Elena stayed in Cocha to work on an independent film as assistant art director.

The last week in La Paz has been some what tedious: finishing up my charango lessons, buying some souvenirs, losing at poker (I've concluded that I am a horrible poker player, and serve the purpose of someone else's jackpot), and, once again, getting sick with a mild case of stomach bacteria that left my in bed for a day.

Apart from that I am looking forward to traveling to Arica, Chile, which is supposedly a 7 hour bus trip, in the next few days to visit my parents who are holidaying there. Thereafter, and unless there are no unexpected events in Arica, I may travel to northern Argentina to a catch a ride with a friend who's dad is picking him up there, for some cross-country adventures. In September I will return to Santiago, Chile, to visit my parents and family and stay there for a month.

***
Photos:
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=52869&l=91d96&id=732774973