Northern Chile is predominately a semi-arid to completely arid landscape. To the north of Santiago de Chile, there is endless desert, hugged by the Andes Mountain range, and caressed by the Pacific Ocean. However, while the surface of northern Chile may seem dry, and desolate, it contains many riches that await a curious traveller...
On Monday, May 12, I said "hasta luego" (See you later) to Santiago de Chile, and looked to northern Chile, and said ¡vamos! (Lets go!) First stop La Serena, a 6 hour bus ride north of Santiago. Historically, La Serena was the second city to be founded in the 16th century. It developed as a major port city for the region, and has an interesting history of pirate attacks, and indigenous rebellion. Today, it is a tourist destination, offering clean beaches, "typical zones" (preserved colonial buildings and streets), and a passage to the valleys inland.
I stayed in La Serena for two nights, and three days. During this time I visited Valle de Elqui (The Valley of Elqui), about two hours inland. I took an all day bus ticket, went to the top of the valley, and worked my way down, which was recommended to me. There were numerous small villages that I explored, on foot most of the time, around the valley. The valley has an economic reliance on vineyards (for wine, and the national drink, Pisco), and tourism (Hotels, restaurants, are frequent, however, it was the ebb of the tourist season). The final village was Vicuña, birth place of Gabriel Mistral, chilean poet, and first female noble prize winner for literature in Latin America. The north of Chile, particularly Valle de Elqui, is famous for having one of the most clearest skies in the world, with blue skies all year around - an interesting juxtaposition to Santiago, one of the most contaminated skies in the world! NASA has constructed one of the largest astronomical observatories here, in Cerro Tololo. At the end of my valley tour, I booked a visit to the tourist observatory, in Cerro Mamalluca - It was my first time to one, and was educational, and amazing.
I was still ambivalent about where my next stop was going to be, only deciding the last minute at the bus terminal, but even then the agent changed my mind, when she advised of a closer town to stop at before my destination of San Pedro de Atacama. At last, I secured myself a one-way ticket to Calama. A 15 hour, night time bus ride later, and I was there, around early afternoon. The first thing I desired was a hot shower, and some matè; although, this was delayed as I wandered around looking for lodging.
Calama, is a copper mining town, located 2,400 metres above sea level. During my one day stay, before leaving for San Pedro, I did a free (something free, at last!) tour of the copper mines. The tour starts at the literal ghost-town of Chuquicamata, 12 km north of Calama. Chuqui, where Che Guevara stopped along his journey, is now a virtual waste land. The town was abandoned due to the contamination from the nearby copper mine, and soon to be flattened. However, not wanting to lose a workforce, the towns people were moved to Calama - the last people being transported only last December.
Chile is the main exporter of copper in the world. The Chilean economy is addicted (terminally perhaps) to copper exports, which makes up 70% of GDP. The mines of Chuqui provides 12% of copper exports. The open cut mines consist of a 22,000 workforce, that operates 24-hours a day, with an 8 hour rotating shift. This, however, does not take into account the subcontractors, which must contribute an additional 20,000 workers. There are three open cut mines in this region, with plans to eventually unite them into a super mine, which will be around 30x40 km2. It is estimated that this region contains one the largest reserves. Currently, only 1/3 of the copper reserves has been exploited in this area.
During the government of Eduardo Frei, the nationalisation of the copper mines was initiated, with the state controlling 51% of the copper industry. This process was to be fully completed later under Salvador Allende. After the coup d'état it was auctioned off to the cheapest bidder. Interestingly, today, Chuqui is still managed by the state company, Codelco; Lamentably, the transnationals still control a large part of the copper industry - Chile´s wealth is exported, for the benefit of others, but only for the benefit of some.
After Calama it was time to travel to San Pedro de Atacama; fortunately a 90 min bus trip. The small town of only 2,000 people, like most small towns, lives off the tourism industry - the main street is a red light district of tourist agencies, local artisans, and over priced restaurants that sell crap (if you look around you will find your quality, affordable restaurant, where the locals go). It is, as they say, the gringo capital of Chile. While you would come across your yahoo, beer drinking, loud gringo, I was able to meet some interesting travelers and locals. The gringos flock to the tourist agencies to tell them where to go; I oppted to scope out the tourist information and independantly seek a means to the end. Man discovered the wheel, and I utilised leg power for transportation - I hired a bike! It was a fantastic method to discover the region - valleys, salted mountains, and the general landscape. While I won´t go into too much of a description of the sights, as the photos capture the environment, I will say that ambiance was one of serenity - after stopping to catch my breath, you pause, and hear nothing, literally. The sound of nothingness is incredible, it allows for a completely different perspective on your surrondings. I stayed at San Pedro for four nights, longer than anticipated.
For those that may be curious of how my travel diet is, as at times it can be meagre, depending on budget, price of certain foods, etc, in the last few days I have enjoyed cheap, qualitative, home-style meals, from the local restaurants, that perhaps due to there superficial character are overlooked by the gringo traveller. A typical meal would consist of two servings, your carzuela (stews) - so heart warming in winter, oh! - that usually have meat, potato, rice, followed by another dish of chicken or meat with rice - all for about $3.50 - $4.00 US. I don´t think I have eaten so well in such a long time. Of course, due to all the bike exercise, I have been conscious to have healthy meals to recuperate my energy.
Tomorrow morning I will be taking a 5 hour bus trip to the border town of Ollague. From there I will be taking another 5 hour bus trip to the Bolivian mining town of Uyuni. What adventures lay ahead I don´t know; but I am eager to submerge myself in the Bolivian political process, discover its history, and explore the natural landscape.
Photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=39097&l=b3727&id=732774973
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Friday, May 2, 2008
Chile heats up
I grab my handkerchief, try to cover my mouth from the gas, but can't because I need it to blow my nose, and to wipe the stinging tears streaming down my face. Covering one eye, while I stumble away from the white, powdery gas, to the not-so-fresh air. The sensation of stepping out of a pool of concentrated chlorine lingers, but my eyes recover. I look back from where I came, laugh and think "yep, this is what I came for", and decide to return, to not miss any action.
Not long before, the crowd had raised their left fist in the air, with pride and vigor, sang-along with the legendary group Inti-Illimani, "el pueblo unido, jamas, sera vencido" ("the people united will never be defeated"). The band cautioned the people to go home peacefully and not be provoked by the police.
But it didn't take long. From afar one could see a throng of people running, with the thick white smoke that is tear gas hanging behind them. Soon came the water tank, tear gas, riot police, tear gas, and paddy wagons (did I mention tear gas?). The street fighting lasted a few hours. There had been agent provocateurs embedded in the crowd, whose purpose is to insight trouble, so then the police can move in with the head banging.
On Thursday, 1 May, I went to Los Heroes in Santiago, to commemorate International Workers' Day, May Day. I had traveled back from my brief stay in San Antonio specifically to attend this year's rally. It was a lively atmosphere with plenty of young people, those not so young, unions, left groups and parties. There were around 20,000 - 30,000 people that attended, according to the media, so add a bit more. There were a few speeches from union leaders, and then a fantastic show by the protest band, Inti-Illimani.
After the official events, and never requiring any justification, the state repression apparatus, the police, decided to disperse with the crowd by initially firing off tear gas into a section of the crowd; later this became indiscriminate. This, of course, was the catalyst for some street fighting - pelting cops, and cop cars with glass bottles and stones. There were several people that were taking photos, so I was comfortable enough to do the same. Being cautious, and attentive of what was going on, I maneuvered around the place, observing the skirmishes.
However, the street battles escalated to a point where riot cops were moving in, and telling everyone to leave; it was time for me to leave as well. Trying to walk away, and meet up with my family who were waiting for me in the car, I would occasionally have to run when I would look back and see riot police running after the crowd I was with. Eventually, I made it to the car, and made it home. However, the stinging sensation of the tear gas did not leave until later that night.
That was my May Day.
Last week began fairly uneventful, unless you count coming down with the flu as eventful. While I managed to catch an interesting, free exhibition on "los desaparesidos" (the disappeared), the week was, at times, slow. The highlight came when I traveled to Valparaiso to attend the concert of the musical classics: Inti-Illimani, and Los Jaivas. I managed to secure lodging in Valparaiso fairly easy, and cheaply. During the day, before the concert, I did the tourist walk through the hills of Valparaiso. It was quite humorous at times when you would see the same tourists unfolding their maps, trying to figure out where to go. The historic port city of Valparaiso is beautiful, and exhaustive to explore. Narrow, cobblestone streets, with vibrant coloured townhouses, and stairs as footpaths, are the norm.
The open-air concert would have been great for summer, but in winter the icy cold air cuts your skin like a razor. While the concert was a visual and audio treat, it had exacerbated my flu. The following day I travelled south to another port city, San Antonio, to stay at my parents countryside cabin. The trip was long, and tiresome. All I wanted was to get there so I can light the fireplace and have a nice hot shower. But I wouldn't be doing either until the cold chill of the evening.
I spent the next few days convalescing, reading, drinking "mate", and enjoying the tranquility. The neighbours had been very amicable and invited me most nights to their place for dinner and tea. I also took the opportunity to catch up with relatives who lived in the area. It was hilarious seeing the look on their face when they realised who I was, they had not seen me since I was a little shit, a pre-teen. I didn't really bother exploring San Antonio, due to time and because I had been their when I was younger. On Wednesday, April 30, I bused it back to Santiago.
The next week or so will be spent getting things finalised for my travels to Bolivia via Argentina - the icy nights of Chile have told me I need warmer clothing. While it has been a comfortable last few weeks, I have overdone my time in Santiago, and it will be refreshing to start a new journey.
Photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37031&l=be21e&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37040&l=e2d43&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37045&l=ffdef&id=732774973
Not long before, the crowd had raised their left fist in the air, with pride and vigor, sang-along with the legendary group Inti-Illimani, "el pueblo unido, jamas, sera vencido" ("the people united will never be defeated"). The band cautioned the people to go home peacefully and not be provoked by the police.
But it didn't take long. From afar one could see a throng of people running, with the thick white smoke that is tear gas hanging behind them. Soon came the water tank, tear gas, riot police, tear gas, and paddy wagons (did I mention tear gas?). The street fighting lasted a few hours. There had been agent provocateurs embedded in the crowd, whose purpose is to insight trouble, so then the police can move in with the head banging.
On Thursday, 1 May, I went to Los Heroes in Santiago, to commemorate International Workers' Day, May Day. I had traveled back from my brief stay in San Antonio specifically to attend this year's rally. It was a lively atmosphere with plenty of young people, those not so young, unions, left groups and parties. There were around 20,000 - 30,000 people that attended, according to the media, so add a bit more. There were a few speeches from union leaders, and then a fantastic show by the protest band, Inti-Illimani.
After the official events, and never requiring any justification, the state repression apparatus, the police, decided to disperse with the crowd by initially firing off tear gas into a section of the crowd; later this became indiscriminate. This, of course, was the catalyst for some street fighting - pelting cops, and cop cars with glass bottles and stones. There were several people that were taking photos, so I was comfortable enough to do the same. Being cautious, and attentive of what was going on, I maneuvered around the place, observing the skirmishes.
However, the street battles escalated to a point where riot cops were moving in, and telling everyone to leave; it was time for me to leave as well. Trying to walk away, and meet up with my family who were waiting for me in the car, I would occasionally have to run when I would look back and see riot police running after the crowd I was with. Eventually, I made it to the car, and made it home. However, the stinging sensation of the tear gas did not leave until later that night.
That was my May Day.
Last week began fairly uneventful, unless you count coming down with the flu as eventful. While I managed to catch an interesting, free exhibition on "los desaparesidos" (the disappeared), the week was, at times, slow. The highlight came when I traveled to Valparaiso to attend the concert of the musical classics: Inti-Illimani, and Los Jaivas. I managed to secure lodging in Valparaiso fairly easy, and cheaply. During the day, before the concert, I did the tourist walk through the hills of Valparaiso. It was quite humorous at times when you would see the same tourists unfolding their maps, trying to figure out where to go. The historic port city of Valparaiso is beautiful, and exhaustive to explore. Narrow, cobblestone streets, with vibrant coloured townhouses, and stairs as footpaths, are the norm.
The open-air concert would have been great for summer, but in winter the icy cold air cuts your skin like a razor. While the concert was a visual and audio treat, it had exacerbated my flu. The following day I travelled south to another port city, San Antonio, to stay at my parents countryside cabin. The trip was long, and tiresome. All I wanted was to get there so I can light the fireplace and have a nice hot shower. But I wouldn't be doing either until the cold chill of the evening.
I spent the next few days convalescing, reading, drinking "mate", and enjoying the tranquility. The neighbours had been very amicable and invited me most nights to their place for dinner and tea. I also took the opportunity to catch up with relatives who lived in the area. It was hilarious seeing the look on their face when they realised who I was, they had not seen me since I was a little shit, a pre-teen. I didn't really bother exploring San Antonio, due to time and because I had been their when I was younger. On Wednesday, April 30, I bused it back to Santiago.
The next week or so will be spent getting things finalised for my travels to Bolivia via Argentina - the icy nights of Chile have told me I need warmer clothing. While it has been a comfortable last few weeks, I have overdone my time in Santiago, and it will be refreshing to start a new journey.
Photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37031&l=be21e&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37040&l=e2d43&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37045&l=ffdef&id=732774973
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