I grab my handkerchief, try to cover my mouth from the gas, but can't because I need it to blow my nose, and to wipe the stinging tears streaming down my face. Covering one eye, while I stumble away from the white, powdery gas, to the not-so-fresh air. The sensation of stepping out of a pool of concentrated chlorine lingers, but my eyes recover. I look back from where I came, laugh and think "yep, this is what I came for", and decide to return, to not miss any action.
Not long before, the crowd had raised their left fist in the air, with pride and vigor, sang-along with the legendary group Inti-Illimani, "el pueblo unido, jamas, sera vencido" ("the people united will never be defeated"). The band cautioned the people to go home peacefully and not be provoked by the police.
But it didn't take long. From afar one could see a throng of people running, with the thick white smoke that is tear gas hanging behind them. Soon came the water tank, tear gas, riot police, tear gas, and paddy wagons (did I mention tear gas?). The street fighting lasted a few hours. There had been agent provocateurs embedded in the crowd, whose purpose is to insight trouble, so then the police can move in with the head banging.
On Thursday, 1 May, I went to Los Heroes in Santiago, to commemorate International Workers' Day, May Day. I had traveled back from my brief stay in San Antonio specifically to attend this year's rally. It was a lively atmosphere with plenty of young people, those not so young, unions, left groups and parties. There were around 20,000 - 30,000 people that attended, according to the media, so add a bit more. There were a few speeches from union leaders, and then a fantastic show by the protest band, Inti-Illimani.
After the official events, and never requiring any justification, the state repression apparatus, the police, decided to disperse with the crowd by initially firing off tear gas into a section of the crowd; later this became indiscriminate. This, of course, was the catalyst for some street fighting - pelting cops, and cop cars with glass bottles and stones. There were several people that were taking photos, so I was comfortable enough to do the same. Being cautious, and attentive of what was going on, I maneuvered around the place, observing the skirmishes.
However, the street battles escalated to a point where riot cops were moving in, and telling everyone to leave; it was time for me to leave as well. Trying to walk away, and meet up with my family who were waiting for me in the car, I would occasionally have to run when I would look back and see riot police running after the crowd I was with. Eventually, I made it to the car, and made it home. However, the stinging sensation of the tear gas did not leave until later that night.
That was my May Day.
Last week began fairly uneventful, unless you count coming down with the flu as eventful. While I managed to catch an interesting, free exhibition on "los desaparesidos" (the disappeared), the week was, at times, slow. The highlight came when I traveled to Valparaiso to attend the concert of the musical classics: Inti-Illimani, and Los Jaivas. I managed to secure lodging in Valparaiso fairly easy, and cheaply. During the day, before the concert, I did the tourist walk through the hills of Valparaiso. It was quite humorous at times when you would see the same tourists unfolding their maps, trying to figure out where to go. The historic port city of Valparaiso is beautiful, and exhaustive to explore. Narrow, cobblestone streets, with vibrant coloured townhouses, and stairs as footpaths, are the norm.
The open-air concert would have been great for summer, but in winter the icy cold air cuts your skin like a razor. While the concert was a visual and audio treat, it had exacerbated my flu. The following day I travelled south to another port city, San Antonio, to stay at my parents countryside cabin. The trip was long, and tiresome. All I wanted was to get there so I can light the fireplace and have a nice hot shower. But I wouldn't be doing either until the cold chill of the evening.
I spent the next few days convalescing, reading, drinking "mate", and enjoying the tranquility. The neighbours had been very amicable and invited me most nights to their place for dinner and tea. I also took the opportunity to catch up with relatives who lived in the area. It was hilarious seeing the look on their face when they realised who I was, they had not seen me since I was a little shit, a pre-teen. I didn't really bother exploring San Antonio, due to time and because I had been their when I was younger. On Wednesday, April 30, I bused it back to Santiago.
The next week or so will be spent getting things finalised for my travels to Bolivia via Argentina - the icy nights of Chile have told me I need warmer clothing. While it has been a comfortable last few weeks, I have overdone my time in Santiago, and it will be refreshing to start a new journey.
Photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37031&l=be21e&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37040&l=e2d43&id=732774973
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37045&l=ffdef&id=732774973
Cities I have visited
Odyssey visits
